Crankshaft Oil Seal (Front) Leaking.

[bultaco]

There seem to be various ways of dealing with this crankshaft oil seal repair, the following information may help you to choose which repair you'd like to go with.

[bultaco]

Question
I have a 1994 Toyota pick-up, I have a bad oil leak in the front of the motor.Could you tell me how many gaskets or seals are in the front and what to do to fix it. It is a 22R


Answer
There are four common leak areas on this engine,the valve cover gasket, the front oilpump seal, the timing cover and the oil pan.
The most common is the oil pump seal and o-ring located just behind the crankshaft pulley.
The timing cover has gaskets between the cover and the block and they are also a common leak especially on the lower right where the oil pressure from the pump goes through into the block. It could be the valve cover gasket but the oil should leak from the top down, if the valve cover gasket area is dry then you can rule it out.
To replace the font crank seal the crank pulley has to be removed and then the oil pump, this is a gear type pump and is driven off the front of the crankshaft, there is a thing o-ring type seal between the oil pump body and the timing cover that also needs to be replaced, if the timing cover gaskets are leaking the timing cover must be removed, this can be done without removing the cylinder head. Clean the area and try to determine where the leak is actually coming from before making a repair attempt.

en.allexperts.com/q/Toyota-Repair-832/Oil-Leak.htm

[bultaco]

Harmonic balancer repair sleeve/speedy sleeve (seal saver sleeve, balancer repair sleeve,crank seal saver,sleeveNseal ring) slides over shaft:

Felpro # 16214=$5
Future # 21-2514 (aluminum shaft sleeve included)
NAPA repair sleeve # 99177 (Mack PDC,National,Car Quest)
Pioneer repair sleeve (Silver Seal) # HB-4133
CS4128

attached with some epoxy or use Loctite 609 or 242 or put some red RTV and fill that groove before you put it on also look in the yellow pages under “bearing suppliers”.

For a picture:

chicago-rawhide.com/auto/speedi/speedi.htm

Front crank oil seal (front input shaft seal):

Fed Mogul (National,Timken Seals) # 710345
Toyota # 90311-45014 (brown, 7 mm thick) & 90311-30115, Chicago Rawhide # CR17758 (9 mm thick) or CR550294 (7mm thick)
Beck Arnley # 0522144
NAPA repair sleeve # 99317(rear),list price $68.10>$33.19 net Canadian $ and the seal was $12.10

This info provided by EB:there are 3 versions of the speedy sleeve:

1)one is light steel with spray chrome flashing(yuk)
2)one is steel with chrome plating
3)and the good ones are all stainless steel and they are made in Canada.

www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/frntseal.htm

www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187131&highlight=speedy+sleeve

[bultaco]

It's an easy fix. Pull the radiator for more space. A simple puller will do the job on the pulley. I haven't had to use one, but have one handy. Once you yank the pulley you'll find a groove of varying depth cut into the journal by the old seal. As stated by others, a seal saver sleeve will rectify this. However, it's a delicate part and easily mis-shapened if it's started crooked. If you don't have access to a small arbor press or a drill press(to be used as a press) let your local auto parts store with a machine shop install it for you. I've seen a few sleeves not work after being installed in the yard. If it's the original oil pump, it wouldn't be a bad idea to install a new one. Pretty cheap part. Regardless of whether you install a new one or an old one, make sure you prime it! . Hint: The oil pump gasket is an O ring, shaped like the oil pump, that fits into a groove on the pump. It'll want to fall out as you try to install the pump on the engine. I put four dabs of grease in each corner to hold it in place. Works every time. Make sure that you lube the new seal or the seal saver before installing the pulley. It's all pretty straightforward.

www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146808&highlight=speedy+sleeve

[bultaco]

You'd be amazed just how much oil your 22R engine can lose with a leaking front crank seal, twice now I've checked engine oil level and found nothing on the stick ! this was after adding oil and driving maby 100 miles.

Except for a few cranky radiator hose clamps on my 81 2wd pickup, pulling the flywheel went real easy, it doesn't have AC or power steering so I was able to use a vise-grip chain clamp on the front (unused) pully on the Harmonic balancer to hold it while I used a length of pipe on a breaker bar to get the crankshaft pully bolt undone, the Harmonic balancer slipped right off without using a puller.

To clean the seal area, protect the crankshaft surface from damage and keep crud from entering the engine I made up a simple piece of exhaust pipe, just had to wrap it a few turns with tape and it fit snugly into the seal. using a thin wall piece of pipe means it will slip over the crankshaft without disturbing the woodruff key.






Instead of using a speedy sleeve I plan on using a seal from a 1994 22R/RE, part # 90311-45014, which measures 7mm thick as compared to my original seal at 12mm. this should reposition the sealing surface away from the groove worn into the pully hub.

[bultaco]

Original 12mm wide seal on the left, new 7mm wide seal on the right, part # 90311-45014 original part for 1994 22R/RE. Installation on 1981 22R.



The flywheel seal bore also measures 12mm deep.

Because of the position of the lip on the new seal you'll want to position the seals face 1mm back from the front face of the timing chain cover, if you push the seal to the back of the bore it's lip will end up riding in the groove created by the old seal.
New seal installed.

This photo shows the proper depth so the seals lip will ride on an unworn area of the flywheel stub.

Used silicone to help seal between the crankshaft and flywheel bore.

Old water pipe connector and piece of pipe worked well to tap the seal in.

The leak has now stopped we'll see how it holds up.