My 70s Old School Rice Chopper.

[bultaco]

My 1982 Yamaha XV 750.

With exception of the exhaust the bike was totally stock when I bought it, and as it goes the more parts I removed the better it started looking so I just kept going ;D



Below is close to how it looked when I bought it, at this point I had only swapped the original apehanger bars with regular streetbike bars.



I've kept all the original parts for this bike so if I decide to sell it the next owner can return it stock.

Starting at the front.

Removed original headlight and it's aluminum mounting frame, replaced with 5-3/4" Spare Parts Headlight.



Replaced Speedometer/Tachometer Dash with Stainless white face Speedo.



Relocated fusebox from front of lower trippleclamp and installed in toolbox below the airbox.



Replaced original bars with homemade stainless risers and K&N Dragbars.



More on building the risers.
bultaco.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=handlebarrisers



Very simple bar end mirror is original XV750 part mounted using a metric handlebar mount which happened to have matching threads, under bar mirrors are the way to go, especially on narrow drag bars, you get a clear view behind you without having to lean your shoulder over and when the guys headlights behind you are blasting your eyes you just put your left arm to your side and it blocks his lights. works awesome !

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The forks are 4" over from Franks Engineering out of Illinois. these guys are the best people in the world to work with, they'll call you personally to answer any questions you have. I had them build a custom pair of 36mm stanchions with threaded caps, if you order regular 82 XV 750 forks you'll end up with those garbage caps held in with spring clips and rust. Franks told me the exact size caps I needed and I had to hunt them down in the bone yards, mine are 1981 Kawasaki KDX 175 caps. if your interested in Franks here's their ph # and address. 847-475-1003. Frank's Maintenance and Engineering Inc. 945 Pitner Avenue. Evanston. Illinios. 60202.





I wanted to go 6" over but I went the easy route, 4" over means you can still use the side stand, center stand and the stock speedo cable and brake lines will reach.

All switchgear has been removed from the bars, only wires left are for the brake light and those will be gone after I build the forward controls.

I used to have this universal throttle on my old briggs and stratten mini bike a hundred years ago, couldn't believe how well it adapted to the XV.



The headlight high/low beam is now wired to a simple "on/off/on" toggle switch located under the tank on the left side of the bike. the bracket is bolted to the top of the carb using two of the diaphram screws. the toggle is covered by a black rubber boot.



The ignition and starter switch now reside on the left side of the bike behind the seat. the toggle is spring loaded and encased in rubber with a spiffy little rubber boot that covers the toggle, these are the same switches used on seadoos and jetskis. right next to the rear tire it needs to be waterproof !



Better view of where the toggle is.



Showing the bolts running through a tab welded on the new subframe downtube.

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Chopped up subframe, I bought a used one so the original can stay intact and goes with the bike when I sell it.



New location for the shocks air valve. right side of bike below seat. the shock damping adjustment cables and hardware has been stored.



As an example this is the original subframe, you just cut the top tubes about an inch behind the locking mechanism for the seat, then you weld straight tubes down to the original mounting points.



The original seat was stored away and a boneyard seatpan and foam were used and made smaller by cutting the center section out, then joining the front to the back, once the seatpan was done the same was done to the seat foam, a good 2" of foam was shaved off the top which leaves about 1" to sit on, it's wide enough to be comfortable.



All the extra wiring and relays are hidden in this leather bag, an alternative to this would be to use carb mounted air filters and then use the airbox to hide the wires, I decided I wanted to fill the gap between the seat and the rear fender anyway so I went with the handmade bag.



Opened up, the hardware for this can be found at any horse/tack leather shop. the turn latches are like those used on tarps for boats.



Stainless steel plate mounts it to the back of the seat.



The rear fender is a boat or utility trailer fender from a place called Princess auto, cost more to have it chromed than the fender is worth. fits excellent though and is made of nice thick guage steel.



The fender struts are 9/16" cold rolled bar stock and are now what's left of a 42" sissybar, it lasted a good 3 years of road pounding before it cracked and needed to be removed.

The tail light is a dirt cheap black painted unit from NAPA. chromes up nice.

The license plate frame is a U.S model and our larger Canadian plates need to be cut down to fit.



Thats pretty much it, here's a quick list of stuff removed.

Blinkers.
Choke Cable.
Headlight.
Speedo/Tach/Dash.
One mirror.
Switchegear from bars.
Fuel tank and side panel badges.
Mixture control valve.
Rear footpegs.
Rear fender and tail light.
Seat grab rail.
Horn.
Original apehanger bars.

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Before the sissybar broke